But you won't. Look beneath the airy
French chateau on the bottle's label and you'll find the unvarnished
truth: "mis en Bouteille au Garage" (bottled in the
garage).
The garage in question is located in a newer housing tract in
Strongsville, a Cleveland suburb. And despite 175 gallons of wine
aging in giant glass jugs against one wall of the garage (state and
federal regulations allow hobbyists to make no more than 200 gallons
per year), and another 30 cases of wine in bottles, there is still
room for at least one car.
"We make good wine," says Tom Cobette, gesturing toward
some of the more than 30 medals he and his wife, Jan, have won since
squishing their first grapes five years ago. Their garage wines
regularly best commercial wineries at blind tastings. "It is
easy," says Cobette, a mild-mannered metals-industry
consultant. "If you just put grapes in a crock and let it sit,
it will form into wine."
Over the last five years, a dramatically increasing number of
Ohioans have discovered that with $50 worth of gizmos and a few
months patience, they can produce wine at home for the cost of grape
juice. A bottle of wine as good as what most people buy at the store
can be made for less than the price of a gallon of milk.
The state does not license home winemakers, so it is difficult to
determine their exact number. But the cork has popped, say people
who sell supplies. "You have everyone from farmers to people
living in $300,000 houses who are doing it," says Eileen
Leverentz, co-owner of Leener's Brew Works in Northfield, where
sales of wine-making kits have leapt 25 to 30 percent every month
since September 2001. "We are swamped."
Membership in the Central Ohio Wine Guild, a winemaking club, has
jumped from 80 to 140 in just two years' time. And sales of start-up
equipment kits from L.D. Carleson, a national wholesaler based in
Kent, rocketed more than 4,000 percent since 1997, says Nancy Ohm, a
wine specialist there. "Home winemaking has grown tremendously,"
she says.
The public is more knowledgeable today about fine wine than just
a few years ago, and news that wine is good for your health has
added to the public's thirst. But experts say that here in Ohio, the
explosion in home winemaking has been fueled primarily by the
grapes.
Ohio's commercial wineries are becoming better and more numerous,
and are offering more and better grapes and juice to local amateurs.
And improvements in technology for packing juice have allowed
distributors to begin importing high-quality, vintage juice from
France, Italy and other countries.
Within the last five years, a process that uses centrifugal
force, instead of heat, to concentrate raw juice has become popular
with juice distributors. The juice produces better wine, and is
generally sold in kits that include the yeast to make it sing,
extras like oak chips or berries, and foolproof instructions. "These
are fine wines," says John Pastor, an owner of Grape and
Granary, a winemaking and beer-brewing supply shop in Akron.
The kits produce a more sophisticated wine than the traditional
backyard vino. Winemakers following old-country family traditions
often simply squash grapes and wait for natural yeast on the grape
skin to do the rest. It works, but results are inconsistent. And
traditional winemakers often don't add sulfites to their juice,
which limits the wine's shelf life to about a year.
By contrast, a Cabernet Sauvignon from a $75 kit using French
grapes is best left to age in the bottle for four years, letting
flavors meld and giving tannins the chance to mellow. Given the
time, enthusiasts say, the 30 bottles from the kit will be as good
as bottles that sell for $8 to $16 in the store.
"You have to have the patience," says Gloria Kujawa, a
retired nurse who began making wine from a kit in her Canal
Winchester basement last February. She started with a Chardonnay,
and now has four more vintages in various stages of development.
"It is like making a cake mix," she says. "You get
the ingredients and just follow directions."
A knowledgeable home winemaker can beat the kit wines, and
enthusiasts claim that commercial wines aren't that hard to beat
either. Because they are dealing with a much smaller volume, home
winemakers can exercise more control over their wine than commercial
wineries can. People become addicted.
Sitting at his kitchen table with a wine glass of his Cotes de
Cuyahoga, Tom Cobette explains that it is not a great wine,
certainly not his best, but good enough for everyday drinking. It
was an artful blend of three vintages he already had in his garage.
"If I could do it over again, I'd begin when I was younger and
learn how to grow grapes," says Cobette, 51, twirling his
glass.
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